The hobo life for me in Portugal

OK. I’m guessing that there are plenty of readers out there who’ve been milling around this part of the world for far longer than I have done, perhaps by actually living here.

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In my twenty years of exploring Portugal, I’ve been reluctant to lay down any roots because I’ve been quite content moving around, hopefully taking it all in; rather than fixing myself to one particular region. I do admire those who have taken the plunge and settled here, fully immersing themselves into a community, be that a community of expats or by tackling the language barrier and managing to integrate with Portuguese society as a whole. Parabéns. I’m still working on the language part.

Commitment

You see, I’m more of what you might call a flip-flopper. I know that quite a few expats find my way of doing things a bit distasteful. Not becoming “one thing or the other” and therefore representing “little by way of any real value to Portugal” are comments that I quite frequently encounter on my travels. Which is fair enough. The expats who challenge my position see themselves as having made the effort, nailed their colours to the mast and are therefore contributing wholly to Portuguese society and its economy by being fully committed. I understand the irritation with someone like me, who seems to enjoy all the various benefits without making any commitment.

Flip-floppers, such as I, were a particular bugbear to residents and citizens who were already living here in Portugal before Brexit. Back then, the likes of yours truly could remain here for extended periods without making any real effort to “belong” or facing any backlash for that seemingly abhorrent lack of commitment. Over-staying one’s welcome came easy. Too easy, for some, it seems; judging by the backlash I’ve endured over the years. Nowadays, of course, us non-EU types only have 90 days before the metaphorical exit is shown to us.

Nomadic existence

But, my nomadic existence around Portugal has certainly been an adventure. Not an adventure in facing things like the bureaucracy that expats routinely face, but an adventure in exploration, freedom and learning. Of course, if I lived a thousand years, I realise that I’d never see everything that this great country has to offer because even now, after 20 years, I still manage to find new things to see. Places that are “brand new” to me, at least.

So, you see, I’m pretty happy with my nomadic ways, because it brings me very little by way of additional responsibility. I have no property to upkeep because I simply rent an apartment, explore a locality for a few days and then hand back the keys. To me, that’s perfect. Responsibility is my least favourite word.

Favourite places?

But, I’ve often asked myself, after all the years of looking around this country: do I actually have any favourite places? Basically, if I WAS going to settle down here in Portugal, where would that place most likely be?

That’s a pretty good question. In my book, the obvious one is the Algarve. Of course, I know, the Algarve is a biggish sort of place. It’s also a pretty diverse sort of region. By that I mean, Silves is very different to Albufeira for instance. Portimão is very different from Tavira. In other words, there are endless choices. Sure, the Algarve isn’t everyone’s cup of cha but, as a base, I think it’s ideal. OK properties aren’t exactly cheap here but they are often modern stock. That actually counts in the Portuguese context. I also enjoy the year-round warmth and sunshine.

Of course, the Algarve provides a plethora of different amenities too and it’s only a couple of hours from places such as Seville. The big one is that we’re never too far from Faro Airport here on the Algarve. That’s a big bonus for those of us who have connections beyond Portuguese shores.

If I was to pick one place in the Algarve, it’s got to be Quarteira. It has all I need. Easy access to the airport, great road links, a favourable climate more or less all year-round and plenty of excellent amenities. You’re never too far from anywhere in the Algarve when you’re in Quarteira, whether it’s Albufeira or the Spanish border town of Ayamonte. Quarteira blends traditional Portuguese living with the uber modern amenities of Vilamoura, which is only a 20-minute stroll away from Quarteira’s beautiful promenade.

I can hear plenty of moans and groans now I’ve mentioned Vilamoura. Yes, yes, it’s full of tourists, exactly the kind of folk some expats have moved here to get away from. I get that too, especially if you happen to have moved here for an “off-grid” sort of existence, living on a diet of kale smoothies and roasted chestnuts. It’s a case of horses for courses. So, have I got anywhere, say, in the heat and the arid heart of the Alentejo where I might like to live?

Isolation?

The most isolation I could probably hack is Évora. I absolutely love this town. Again, there are amenities aplenty and it’s rather beautiful. There are great restaurants, pleasant bars and it’s far more vibrant of an evening than most people would think should they arrive during the heat of an Alentejo afternoon when most of the locals are sheltering from the blazing sunshine.

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Because Évora is so close to the Spanish border, there’s definitely an air of the Spanish way of doing things going on here. Shops open late, families are out and about late-on into the evenings, socialising and enjoying the cool shade of the approaching night. It’s convivial, it’s relaxing and it’s extremely pleasant without having the hullabaloo and noise of an Algarvian resort. Of all the places I’ve visited in Alentejo, Évora is the one that keeps drawing me back. I just love it. Oh, and the local wines are something else. Rarely served elsewhere, they truly are fabulous.

Silver Coast

What about the Silver Coast? For me, the most magical place it has to offer is Ericeira. I’ve known this place since 2009.

This is a town that has undergone a massive transformation from a quiet, traditional Portuguese fishing village into an internationally renowned surf mecca. The 2011 designation as Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve has completely altered its trajectory, bringing an influx of digital nomads, tourists and expatriates.

The shift has brought both positive energy as well as a few growing pains born of gentrification. But, for me, as a visitor, the vibe remains generally much the same as it was when I first came all those years ago. So, Ericeira plants itself firmly as one of my favourite corners of Portugal’s stunning Silver Coast, with its plentiful list of amenities, great road access and convivial vibes.

The big plan

So, my big plan is simply to continue visiting Portugal rather than setting down any firm roots. I’ve always had itchy feet, so the wandering ways of the nomad seem to suit me rather well. I’ve got lots of other favourite spots in Portugal. But they’ll just have to keep for another day.