Looking back at Blighty from the sunny shores of Portugal

What do I mean by that, you may well be asking? Well, sometimes, the merest mention of Britain will cause somebody to sigh over their ice-cold glass of Super Bock, saying “It’s just not the country I left.” Whether that’s based on nostalgia, selective memory or sober observation depends on whom you ask.

Decline?

There are plenty of individuals both here in Portugal and back in the UK who articulate that feeling consistently, despite the controversies it may evoke. These people observe a Britain that hasn’t simply declined economically, but has slowly dismantled many of the institutions, traditions and moral certainties that once gave the nation its identity. I think you’ll agree, it’s an arresting sentiment.

Few expats suggest that Britain has literally disappeared beneath the North Sea. Rather, they may have simply gained a greater sense of perspective. They can see, from a safe distance, that the old country, the one their forefathers built upon continuity, shared values, strong institutions and a broadly Christian moral framework, has been slowly eroded by political choice rather than by military conquest.

Some might argue that such views have been honed by romanticising about a past that never truly existed. By the same token, expats who obviously no longer live in the UK may, thanks to their new sense of perspective, only be pointing out what those living in the UK on a daily basis are too close to see with any degree of clarity. Either way, such arguments continue to resonate, particularly with many British people who have exchanged drizzle for Portugal’s 300+ days of pure sunshine.

Economic woes

Economically, Britain’s troubles are symptoms rather than causes. Factories have closed, heavy industry has faded into history, high streets increasingly consist of coffee chains, betting shops and empty units displaying optimistic “To Let” signs. Financial services have replaced manufacturing, while governments of every political colour promised prosperity through borrowing and consumption rather than actual production. The result is a nation that became wealthier “on paper” while producing far less tangible value.

Many expats will openly discuss this transformation. They still remember engineering firms, shipyards and thriving market towns, before the UK evolved into what sometimes feels like one enormous service station. Portugal has brought expats an interesting sense of contrast.

Of course, even Portugal has its own set of economic frustrations, and the dreaded bureaucracy occasionally deserves UNESCO protection. But many Portuguese towns still possess working markets, family businesses and independent cafés where customers are known by name rather than by a loyalty card number. These differences may only be subtle, but they are nevertheless profoundly noticeable.

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Cultural changes

Yet, economics is only one factor. Cultural changes are often cited as being the most noticeable differences when expats briefly return to pay the old country a visit.

Observations about cultural matters can become quite provocative, especially by those who believe that Britain has almost deliberately weakened its own confidence by teaching generations to view national history primarily through a lens of profound guilt and failure. Any form of national pride seems to be viewed with suspicion. Traditional values are often deemed to be deeply old-fashioned, whilst patriotism is increasingly confused with nationalism.

Of course, this doesn’t mean that Britain should ignore some of the darker chapters of its history, but it may be poignant to suggest that a nation that’s increasingly unable to admire itself, warts and all, might eventually lose confidence in its future?

Perspective

Expats often experience this contrast quite vividly.

Living abroad frequently strengthens one’s appreciation of British virtues. Queuing patiently, apologising when someone else bumps into you, dry humour, parliamentary democracy, village cricket, afternoon tea and eccentric local traditions suddenly become rather charming rather than embarrassingly quaint.

Distance has a curious way of polishing memories. Perhaps that explains why British pubs flourish across Portugal? They’re not merely businesses selling Sunday roasts and best bitter; they function as tiny embassies of familiarity, where conversations inevitably drift towards weather forecasts, football results and what Britain “used to be like.”

These conversations often lead squarely onto the subject of morality. Some might argue that Britain’s moral framework didn’t collapse overnight, but gradually dissolved through countless small decisions. Marriage has become less stable, churches have emptied, personal responsibility has weakened whilst “rights” have multiplied exponentially. Meanwhile, discipline in schools has definitely softened, and authority has become something to question rather than respect. To some observers, this represents cultural realism rather than degradation. To opponents, it sounds suspiciously like every older generation is complaining about younger people. Nothing new there then?

Modernity

History certainly suggests that each generation fervently believes that civilisation peaked somewhere around its own adolescence.

Even so, modernity definitely feels different, because Britain’s institutions themselves have abandoned the principles they once defended. Education provides one example. Rather than transmitting knowledge and cultural inheritance, many older people seem to believe that schools and even Universities have increasingly become vehicles for fashionable social theorising and declining academic standards. Whether one agrees with this outlook or not, concerns about literacy, discipline and educational outcomes continue to dominate public discourse. That’s not conjecture, it’s fact.

Law and order are big concerns too, especially for those who may have family members still living in British cities. From the peace and tranquillity of a seaside villa in Ericeira, it’s not unreasonable to observe that Britain seems to have stopped enforcing many of its traditional standards, creating an atmosphere where anti-social behaviour has become tolerated rather than challenged.

But. It’s easy for expats to compare experiences.

Portugal is hardly crime-free, but many visitors remark upon the generally respectful atmosphere in Portuguese towns and villages. Elderly people still sit outside cafés late into the evening, kids play in public squares, and community life remains surprisingly visible.

It would be foolish to idealise Portugal and altogether churlish to denigrate Britain without fully exploring at least some of the caveats. Of course, every country possesses frustrations, political disquietude and cultural anxieties. But, as I mentioned earlier in this piece, observing from elsewhere definitely sharpens one’s sense of perspective. Perhaps spending time here in Portugal doesn’t mean we can prove every argument beyond any doubt, but asking uncomfortable questions might be quite a significant gift.

Questions

We can all wonder about what actually binds a nation together. Can economic growth compensate for cultural uncertainties? Does freedom flourish without shared moral expectations? Can traditions disappear without anyone noticing until they’re gone? These questions matter, quite regardless of any idle political leanings.

For British expats, such questions acquire an additional poignancy. Many left Britain seeking sunshine, affordability or adventure rather than escaping national decline. Yet, conversations over a large glass of Alentejo’s best wine, whilst enjoying a glorious Algarvian sunset, often drift back towards Britain with a surprising degree of affection.

A reminder

Watching events unfold from here in Portugal serves as a reminder that while people may emigrate, questions about our home turf have an uncanny habit of following.